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Proceedings of the Estonian Academy of Sciences

ISSN 1736-7530 (electronic)   ISSN 1736-6046 (print)
Formerly: Proceedings of the Estonian Academy of Sciences, series Physics & Mathematics and  Chemistry
Published since 1952

Proceedings of the Estonian Academy of Sciences

ISSN 1736-7530 (electronic)   ISSN 1736-6046 (print)
Formerly: Proceedings of the Estonian Academy of Sciences, series Physics & Mathematics and  Chemistry
Published since 1952
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Nonlinear evaluation of the kinematics of directional field waves; pp. 270–277

(Full article in PDF format) doi: 10.3176/proc.2015.3.10


Authors

John Grue

Abstract

A nonlinear calculation procedure for obtaining the wave kinematics from elevation measurements from field data is outlined in detail. A horizontal current is accounted for. The numerical calculations from the field data are compared to the kinematics of random waves obtained in laboratory measurements.

Keywords

nonlinear calculations, orbital velocity, directional field waves, wave kinematics, PIV from laboratory.

References

1. Clamond , D. and Grue , J. A fast method for fully nonlinear water wave computations. J. Fluid Mech. , 2001 , 447 , 337–355.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1017/S0022112001006000

2. Fructus , D. , Clamond , D. , Grue , J. , and Kristiansen , Ø. An efficient model for three-dimensional surface wave simulations. Part I. Free space problems. J. Comput. Phys. , 2005 , 205 , 665–685.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jcp.2004.11.027

3. Grue , J. On four highly nonlinear phenomena in wave theory and marine hydrodynamics. Appl. Ocean Res. , 2002 , 24 , 261–274.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/S0141-1187(03)00006-3

4. Grue , J. and Jensen , A. Orbital velocity and breaking in steep random gravity waves. J. Geophys. Res. , 2012 , 117 , C07013.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1029/2012JC008024

5. Grue , J. , Clamond , D. , Huseby , M. , and Jensen , A. Kinematics of extreme waves in deep water. Appl. Ocean Res. 2003 , 25 , 355–366.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.apor.2004.03.001

6. Romero , L. and Melville , W. K. Airborne observations of fetch-limited waves in the Gulf of Tehuantepec. J. Phys. Oceanogr. , 2010 , 40 , 441–645.
http://dx.doi.org/10.1175/2009JPO4128.1

 
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Current Issue: Vol. 68, Issue 3, 2019




Publishing schedule:
No. 1: 20 March
No. 2: 20 June
No. 3: 20 September
No. 4: 20 December