ESTONIAN ACADEMY
PUBLISHERS
eesti teaduste
akadeemia kirjastus
PUBLISHED
SINCE 1952
 
Proceeding cover
proceedings
of the estonian academy of sciences
ISSN 1736-7530 (Electronic)
ISSN 1736-6046 (Print)
Impact Factor (2022): 0.9
Travelling water waves along a quartic bottom profile; pp. 166–171
PDF | doi: 10.3176/proc.2010.2.16

Authors
Ira Didenkulova, Efim Pelinovsky
Abstract

The problem of transmission of wave energy in strongly inhomogeneous media is discussed with application to long water waves propagating in a basin with a quartic bottom profile. Using the linear shallow-water theory it is shown that the wave component of the flow disturbance is described by a travelling wave solution with an amplitude and phase that vary with distance. This means that the kinetic part of the wave energy propagates over large distances without reflection. Conditions for wave breaking in the nearshore are found from the asymptotic solution of the nonlinear shallow-water theory. Wave runup on a vertical wall is also studied for a quartic bottom profile.

References

Bluman, G. and Kumei, S. 1987. On invariance properties of the wave equation. J. Math. Phys., 28, 307318.
doi:10.1063/1.527659

Brekhovskikh, L. M. 1980. Waves in Layered Media. Academic Press, New York.

Burger, W. 1967. A note on the breaking of waves on non-uniformly sloping beach. J. Mech. Math., 16(10), 1131–1142.

Caputo, J.-G. and Stepanyants, Yu. A. 2003. Bore formation, evolution and disintegration into solitons in shallow inhomogeneous channels. Nonlinear Proc. Geoph., 10, 407–424.
doi:10.5194/npg-10-407-2003

Clements, D. L. and Rogers, C. 1975. Analytic solution of the linearized shallow-water wave equations for certain continuous depth variations. J. Aust. Math. Soc., B 19, 81–94.

Choi, B. H., Pelinovsky, E., Kim, D. C., Didenkulova, I., and Woo, S. B. 2008. Two- and three-dimensional computa­tion of solitary wave runup on non-plane beach. Non­linear Proc. Geoph., 15, 489502.
doi:10.5194/npg-15-489-2008

Didenkulova, I. 2009. Nonlinear long-wave deformation and runup in a basin of varying depth. Nonlinear Proc. Geoph., 16(1), 23–32.
doi:10.5194/npg-16-23-2009

Didenkulova, I. and Pelinovsky, E. 2009. Non-dispersive travel­ing waves in strongly inhomogeneous water channels. Phys. Lett. A, 373(42), 3883–3887.
doi:10.1016/j.physleta.2009.08.051

Didenkulova, I., Pelinovsky, E., and Soomere, T. 2008. Exact travelling wave solutions in strongly inhomogeneous media. Estonian J. Eng., 14, 220–231.
doi:10.3176/eng.2008.3.03

Didenkulova, I., Pelinovsky, E., and Soomere, T. 2009. Long surface wave dynamics along a convex bottom. J. Geophys. Res. – Oceans, 114, C07006.
doi:10.1029/2008JC005027

Dingemans, M. W. 1996. Water Wave Propagation over Uneven Bottom. World Scientific, Singapore.

Engelbrecht, J. K., Fridman, V. E., and Pelinovsky, E. N. 1988. Nonlinear Evolution Equations (Pitman Research Notes in Mathematics Series, No. 180). Long­man, London.

Ginzburg, V. L. 1970. Propagation of Electromagnetic Waves in Plasma. Pergamon Press, New York.

Grimshaw, R., Pelinovsky, D., and Pelinovsky, E. 2010. Homo­genization of the variable-speed wave equation. Wave Motion.
doi:10.1016/j.wavemoti.2010.03.001

Gurtin, M. E. 1975. On the breaking of water waves on a sloping beach of arbitrary shape. Quart. Appl. Math., 33, 187–189.

Ibragimov, N. H. and Rudenko, O. V. 2004. Principle of an a priori use of symmetries in the theory of nonlinear waves. Acoust. Phys., 50, 406419.
doi:10.1134/1.1776218

Mei, C. C., Stiassnie, M., and Yue, D. K.-P. 2005. Theory and Applications of Ocean Surface Waves. World Scientific, Singapore.

Magaard, L. 1962. Zur Berechnung interner Wellen in Meeres­räumen mit nicht-ebenen Böden bei einer speziellen Dichteverteilung. Kiel. Meeresforsch., 18, 161–183.

Pelinovsky, E. N. 1982. Nonlinear Dynamics of Tsunami Waves. Applied Physics Institute Press, Gorky.

Synolakis, C. E. 1987. The runup of solitary waves. J. Fluid Mech., 185, 523–545.
doi:10.1017/S002211208700329X

Varley, E., Venkataraman, R., and Cumberbatch, E. 1971. The propagation of large amplitude tsunamis across a basin of changing depth. I. Off-shore behaviour. J. Fluid Mech., 49, 775801.
doi:10.1017/S0022112071002362

Vlasenko, V. I. 1987. Internal wave generation in the stratified ocean of variable depth. Izv. Atmos. Oceanic Phys., 23, 225–230.
Back to Issue